What is perfection?
Iv been on a roll recenlty reading alot of books on chefs,cooking and avan gard cooking. I didnt understand what it meant 'Avan Gard'. I was brought up in humble beginings and enjoyed good hardy food. Only in my wiser years did i start to take fancy to the more expensive things in life (thanks dad). After cooking school, small portions, foams and jellys were all i could think about. Adria Farran says a restaurant is meant to feed you. You have to leave satisfied and say ' that pork dish was delicious, devine how did he do that?'. Avan guard cooking however is brining forth an experience. A time machine of sorts that transports you to a momonet in your life or a fictional place the chef has delicalty designed. The latter is far more difficult, a skill i think you cant learn or inherit. You must be born with it.
Marco Peier white said, food and cooking has chnaged. The dinig room in his day used to carve their meats at the table. You were treated like royalty. For those 2 hrs you knew what it was like to be a king or a queen. Again, he created experience, not just food.
I was sceptical. If youre regular reader of this blog you know i am a cynic. The worst kind. I WILL find a flaw. It tickles me. Maybe because i can never be a great chef so i decided to destroy all those who try or claim to be. I dont know.
But i needed to test my self. Could someone create a meal purely based on experience. Where every bite will tranform this blogger in to a wonderland with mad hatters and smiling cats!
I guess, if you would wanna give it a shot, you go to the best. I have a saying. " get the best or dont bother at all". Im fortunate my farther has given me the oportunity to always have the best. The best in my eyes since marco has retiered and el bulli is closed has to be one of the 2 gods of cuisine. People who transfored what we know as food. Men who foodies will get goose bumps when hearing their name. Alan Ducass 21 micalin stars. 3 restauntrs with 3 stars. I mean. Legend is like a insult to the man. Then theres gordon, My idol growing up and while cooking. he has 14 but HAD 15. Now a bit of a sell out that just screams and looks like he has more botox then brains.
One man however, Towers over the rest. If i had to list his acalades you would fall asleep wake up and still be shocked that the list still goes on. Ask any chef, cook, house wife and even the greats of today. Joël Robuchon IS DA MAN! 25 michalin stars. Famous for mash potatoes. His briliance is unparalleled, his vision of food is something we all enjoy today. He has been award MOF in cusine. MOF makes 3 micalin stars look like a walk in the park with a car! MOF.
He is and will be someone poeple will admire, desire and aspire to be forever.
So where better to test this theory of the food experience then l'atelier de joel robuchon paris champs elysees.
This humble 2 Michelin stared restaurant is not his best. Not fine dining. But this is where Anthony boardain ate. This is where robuchon gets to kick back and make you comfort food ( well his version that is)
The menu:
Yes like all of France THE DAM MENU IS IN FRENCH! Thank god we had a spanish waiter. No it was not Rafa Benitez, A far better looking and intelligent man who explained what was to come.
Foir Gra in a shot glass. This amus bush is the perfect start to every meal. I mean foi gras as any cource is a MUST! remember we were in spring coming to summer. Flavours are earth and rich. Its Game and rich sauce time.
Asparagus with caviar
Simple and delicate. The unique taste of the asparagus with the salty texture of caviar will give you goose bumps! This is a palate clenser to the rich foir gras. A reminder of spourting fresh vegetables with the rich taste of the sea. I was starting to imagine... and dream..
Rich. Earthy and the delicate tocuh of a sauceir. A ravioli with mince meat. This is the contrast with the first dish. A richer earthier feel to meal. A balance of spring, new beginnings and old lingerings. Look how its plated. A green spring amouts all the brown earthyness. Like a plant fighting to come up and grow!
Lettuce Soup
I HATE SOUPS. I never liked making them, they take up vaulable space in th stomach for foir gars and lobster. This however was breathtaking. Mysterious textures of came from lettuse and spring onions. The soup was rich and silkily. Almost a meal in its self. As im qeiting this i am licking my lips and drools like a hyena thinking about it. You think of a chill breeze and fresh cut grass. The comford of a warm meal. brilliant.
Homard! Lobster.
Fresh spinich leaves and malabar peppers garnish this dish. piece of lobster usually fresh and vibrate are made rich and almost stew like. Each might is warmt and comfort. For a novice seafood eater this is the best way to pop your cheery. For a seafood slut, this will tingle you in ways you havnt been tingled in a while.
Lime, Tomato concase and John Dory.
A meaty fish. Very thich and rich. The marrige with the tomatoes and citrus flavour of the limes. I mean people say fusion food is the next wave but look at this. Asian limes and clilantro with French John Dory. Bravo!!!!!!
A meaty fish. Very thich and rich. The marrige with the tomatoes and citrus flavour of the limes. I mean people say fusion food is the next wave but look at this. Asian limes and clilantro with French John Dory. Bravo!!!!!!
His signature quail stuffed in Foir Gras. I did this dish in cooking school. It brought me back to my giant hands trying not to manhandle the delicate quail. The cooking was superb. The dish is the definition of spring. Comforting. If Joel was to give you a hug this is what it will taste like.
In life. Everyone must do certain things. See a ping pong show, Have a 3sum and eat this. Nothing i write will do this justice. You can youtube it, see pictures Joel him self will make it for you in various cooking shows, However this. This is spectacular. Butter milk and potatoes, coming together in a almost impossible and literally heart stopping way. Almost all Michelin stared restaurants used this recipe. The Robuchon Mash they call it. If thats not icon status i don't know what is.
I was so full i barely had a bite of these delicious treats.
You see. This for me is what food is all about. Fresh ingredients and love. Thats it. No weird smoke and textures that can be a hit and miss. Small portions with intense flavour. The skill of creating menus like this is far more difficult then making something smoke when you eat it. Most of the food you have been eating was conceived in l'atelier long long time ago. He still stands there strong. I have eaten in 3 star Michelin restaurants and 1 star places. This my dear readers. IS A MUST GO!
